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Nagorno-Karabakh: Life after War
Photographer: Christophe Petit Tesson
In Nagorno Karabakh, life is returning to normal after the 44-day war between September and November last year that left more than 5,000 killed and thousands of displaced people and refugees.
But some things are still far from what they used to be in the self declared Republic of Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh), a territory mostly home to ethnic Armenians that the Soviets allocated to Azerbaijan in 1921 and is recognized as Azerbaijani by the international community.
Soldiers stranded in abandoned military positions, schools housing orphans and the children of refugees, villagers in need of aid, and the evident scars of a war that has brought 2,000 Russian peacekeepers to monitor the ceasefire agreed in the middle of the night on November the 10th are now part of the landscape in this troubled region.
Months after the end of the war Nagorno-Karabakh is no longer in the headlines, but a visit to the military cemeteries in Yerevan, the Armenian capital, where entire families mourn their dead, wandering among recently filled graves, is enough to learn about the impact of the conflict that ravaged the area.
Vahan and Erik, two young soldiers in uniform, pay tribute to their fallen comrade Parkev Kasparian,19. Facing the tomb, they tell the story of how he died during a tank battle in Mardakert, tearfully asking him for forgiveness. Nearby, sitting on a grave, Katia, cries for a 20-year-old friend who was killed in Djibrail on the southern front. His portrait is engraved on the headstone.
Two months after the end of hostilities, empty graves are still open, waiting to receive the bodies still coming from the front.
Abandoned Army
Much of the Karabakh army has all but abandoned the area. Until recently, journalists could not access these positions, but now the officers have left. Near Martuni, an eastern city of Nagorno-Karabakh, Hamlet and his soldier comrades are delighted to have guests as they wait for word on when they will finally be relieved. Their superiors do not tell them anything, they say. Their only visitors are stray dogs and the boy from the next farm over. In the ditches which serve as their trenches, Hamlet says that many comrades fell under the drones' shelling. The Armenians had not anticipated that kind of weapon and technology. The ruins of the surrounding buildings are a testament to his words.
Rebuilding
People who have lived through war know well that you cannot rebuild a house with tears. In Martuni, one of the most affected towns by the shelling, men are busy at work, erasing the wounds of war. A two-storey house on the corner of a residential street belongs to Hratchik Avakian, a retired grocer. His home was one of 800 others that were destroyed in shelling on September 27. It will be rebuilt, like the others, he insists.
Across town at the 'Monte Melkonian' school which has already repaired its roof, director Narine Kevorkian has been welcoming students for a few days.
She takes special care of those who have lost a father or a brother as well as their house, which is now on the other side of the separation line. Thirty children are refugees from territory that was lost, and 20 of them are orphans or have lost relatives.
A long queue of exhausted refugees forms outside the Red Cross Aid Distribution Center in Stepanakert. They had tried to find refuge in neighboring Armenia but now they are coming back home after the Yerevan government promised to help pay for their return.
According to Hayk Khanumyan, of the Social Affairs Ministry, 10,000 families lost their homes and fled the combat zones.
In Karabakh political tensions are on the rise. Some want answers, and there are voices demanding that those responsible for the bloodshed be punished and a complete change of the failing leadership.
Despite the resentment, people are mostly frightened of a resumption of the conflict.

The face of a soldier born in 2001 and who died during the Karabakh war is graved in a tomstone at the Military Heroes' Cemetery in Yerevan, Armenia, 13 January 2021. The 20-year-old was killed in Djibrail on the southern front. Away from the cameras and the headlines the drama of the 44 days war between Armenians separatists in Nagorno-Karabakh and Azerbaijan between September and November of 2020 can be felt in the graves covered with still fresh soil of the cemetey of the Armenian capital. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

A view of graves holes at the Military Heroes' Cemetery in Yerevan, Armenia, 13 January 2021. Time has passed and war finished months ago but in the military cemeteries the drama still goes on.
According to the belligerents, more than 5,000 soldiers were killed on both sides in the 44 days conflict that ended in November 2020 with an agreement sponsored by Russia. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

Armenian soldiers Erik (L) and Vahan (2-L) pay tribute to a comrade before his grave at the Military Heroes' Cemetery in Yerevan, Armenia, 13 January 2021. The two young Armenian soldiers could only say that their comrade Parkev Kasparian died age 19 during a shelling in Mardakert. Vahan broke in tears when he was asked about that day. Nearby seating on a grave, Katia, cried for a friend killed in Djibrail in front of a grave with the portrait of another young man. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

People and priests dressed in ceremonial attire gather at the Military Heroes' Cemetery for a tribute in memory of fallen soldiers in Yerevan, Armenia, 13 January 2021. For many weeks after the end of the war with a ceasefire declaration on the 10 November 2020 relatives and friends attended similar ceremonies and mourned for their lost loved ones. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

Relatives lay flowers at the entrance of a cemetery in Yerevan, Armenia, 13 January 2021. Hundreds of people in the city arrived to the cemetery every day at sunset for ceremonies that would last for a few hours to pay tribute to the fallen in the war. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

A group of relatives and friends of a killed soldier pray and listen to the words of a priest in a cemetery in Yerevan, Armenia, 13 January 2021. People attending these ceremonies would leave flowers at the entrance of the cemetery and hold red candlelights. Red is an important colour for Armenians and it is used to remember the genocide of 1915 every year. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

People and relatives gather at the Military Heroes' Cemetery for a tribute ceremony for the fallen soldiers in Yerevan, Armenia, 13 January 2021. Whole families mourn their dead and hundreds walk up and down the hill in which the Yerevan cemetery is located attending ceremonies in memory of their lost loved ones. Fog and incense accompany the mourning relatives in the cold evenings of the winter after the war. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

Teenagers gather at the 'We are our Montains' monument (Dadik u Papik in Armenian) in Stepanakert, de facto capital of the self-proclaimed Republic of Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh), 15 January 2021. Daily life resumes after Russian peacekeepers guard the new borders resulting from the defeat of the Armenian forces in the 44 days war that finished on 10 November 2020. The conflict between Armenians from Karabakh and Azerbaijan resulted in the conquest of two-thirds of this territory the Soviets attributed to Azerbaijan in 1921 and it has remained recognized as such by the international community. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

Armenian soldiers stand guard on a front position near Martuni, an eastern city of the self-proclaimed Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, 16 January 2021. In holes which serve as trenches, many comrades fell under the drones' shellings, as no defense weapon was effective against the technology that the Armenians had not anticipated. The remains of the Karabakh army is abandoned in ghost positions. It was impossible, a short time ago, for journalists to access these positions but the officers are gone and now the soldiers warmly welcome visitors. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

Hamlet (R) and his soldier comrade stand next to a trench near Martuni, an eastern city of Nagorno-Karabakh, 16 January 2021. The two soldiers continue their duty weeks after the end of the war without any specific mission assigned. They are delighted to receive visitors and possibly some informations on the date they will be relieved. Hamlet remembers many killed comrades under the drones' shellings, no defense weapon was effective against this technology that the Armenians had not anticipated. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

A stray dog holds a cow's leg in its mouth at a soldier's front position near Martuni, an eastern city of the self-proclaimed Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, 16 January 2021. Only stray dogs visit the soldiers in the trenches. The militaries would just leave their positions to refill their water tanks and get food from the neighboring villagers. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

Armenian soldiers wait at a military control point in Martakert, a north-eastern city of the self-proclaimed Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, 17 January 2021. The Armenian soldiers' moral is low and in some of the military positions the traditional hard discipline has now relaxed. A large part of the Martakert province conquered by Azerbaijan forces is now reattached to Kelbajar province in Azerbaijan. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

A view of a cross at the entrance of Shurnukh, Syunik province, Armenia, 19 January 2021. Shurnuk is the last Armenian military position before arriving to Nagorno-Karabakh. Now Azerbaijani militaries control the closest crossing points to Armenia in Nagorno-Karabakh although there are still many outstanding disputes in relation with the boundaries and limits in that territory. After the 10 November 2020 ceasefire, Azerbaijan gained control of two-thirds of the territory controlled by Armenians before. The self proclaimed Republic of Nagorno-Karabakh is internationally recognized as part of Azerbaijan. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

An Armenian soldier checks the documents of a truck driver at a checkpoint at Lachin Corridor Crossing, Azerbaijan, 14 January 2021. Lachin Corridor is the only road between Nagorno-Karabakh and Armenia and is currently under control of Russian peacekeepers after the ceasefire agreement on 10 November 2020. Around 2,000 peacekeepers monitor the ceasefire after the agreement reached by Azerbaijan and Armenia and sponsored by Russia. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

A Russian peacekeeping soldier stands at a checkpoint in Shusha, Azerbaijan, 14 January 2021. Russian soldiers control checkpoints and crossing is only allowed without guns. The conquest of Shusha by Azerbaijan on 08 November 2020 meant the final defeat for the Nagorno-Karabakh Army in the 44 days war against Azerbaijan. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

Russian Border Police soldiers guard a checkpoint in Lachin Corridor Crossing, Azerbaijan, 14 January 2021. After a ceasefire agreement on 10 November 2020, Russian authorities deployed a peacekeeping force of 2,000 soldiers. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

An Armenian soldier prays in front of a cross at a military position in Martakert in Nagorno-Karabakh, 17 January 2021. Much of the Karabakh army has all but abandoned the area. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

Passengers sit in a bus at a bus station in Stepanakert, de facto capital of Nagorno Karabakh, 18 January 2021. Life comes back to normal slowly in the de facto capital of Nagorno-Karabakh while people try to figure out how to move on after the war that left more than 5,000 killed. The conflict also pushed some 70,000 people out of this territory into Armenia during the days of the conflict, according to the Armenian Government. Thousands of Armenians are returning to their homes in Nagorno-Karabakh looking for the life they had before the conflict. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

Refugees wait for aid and supplies distributed by the International Federation of the Red Cross (IFRC) in Stepanakert, the capital of the self-proclaimed Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, 18 January 2021. IFRC delivered boxes with oil, rice, pasta, sugar and other basics for every person. The food was acquired from suppliers in the region to support the local food industry after the war. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

A family of refugees from Hadrut is shelterd in a house in Martuni, an eastern city of the self-proclaimed Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, 15 January 2021. People who have lived through war know well that crying does not rebuild a house. According to the Nagorno-Karabakh Human Rights Ombudsman, some 14,000 homes and civilian properties were damaged during the conflict. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

Children play in a schoolyard in Martuni, a city of the self-proclaimed Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, 16 January 2021. The 'Monte Melkonian' school, has already repaired its roof and school director Narine Kevorkian has been welcoming its students for a few days. She took particular care of those who have lost a father or a brother and their homes. At this school 30 children are refugees from lost areas and 20 are orphans or lost relatives. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

Hratchik Avakian, a retired grocer, stands in his demolished house in Martuni, an eastern city of the self-proclaimed Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, 16 January 2021. Hratchik Avakian said he wants to rebuild his totally burned home, which was a two-floor house at a corner of a residential street, destroyed by shellings on 27 September 2020. Some 800 residential buildings and properties suffered some kind of damage by shelling, according to local authorities. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

A girl and her mother spin a ball of wool in a house in Martuni, an eastern city of the self-proclaimed Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, 15 January 2021. Both are refugees from Hadrut, Khojavend District of Azerbaijan, and like many other families found a shelter in the city of Martuni. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

People light candles during a Sunday Mass at the Gandzasar monastery in the Martakert province of the self-proclaimed Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, 17 January 2021. Nagorno-Karabakh has a large heritage with dozens of monasteries and churches built in the 10th century. Some of the temples are now under control of Azerbaijani authorities. People in Nagorno-Karabakh demand explanations about this conflict while others want hard punishments for those responsible and a change of the failing leaders. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

A villager points at the Azerbaijan forces' position in Davit Bek, Syunik province, Armenia, 19 January 2021. The conflict resulted in the conquest of two-thirds of the territory of the separatist republic populated by Armenians, which Stalin had attributed to Azerbaijan in 1921. The presence of Azerbaijani troops in the area between Armenia and Nagorno-Karabakh have made the communications between Armenian communities on both sides of the border more difficult and some choose not to travel on the regular roads to prevent Azerbaijani controls. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

An elderly woman asks a soldier to escort her to her house in Shurnukh, Syunik province, Armenia, 19 January 2021. A road splits Shurnukh in two parts, one on the Armenian side and another one in Nagorno-Karabakh. With the Azerbaijani control of Nagorno-Karabakh the villagers need a permit from the Russian peacekeepers and escort of local militaries to move across the village. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON

Teenagers sit near the 'We are our Montains' monument (Dadik u Papik in Armenian) in Stepanakert, capital of the self-proclaimed Nagorno-Karabakh Republic, 15 January 2021. The agreement negotiated by Russia has yet to show how the normalization of relations between Nagorno-Karabakh, Armenia, and Azerbaijan would be possible. Despite the resentment people are mostly frightened by a resumption of the conflict. EPA-EFE/CHRISTOPHE PETIT TESSON